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Posted: Nov 20, 10:55a ET | Updated: Dec 15, 12:56p ET

Hop, skip, jump: Bowen Island

A bed and breakfast among the trees is a short water taxi ride away

Tucked beneath the Coast Mountains at the mouth of Howe Sound, Bowen Island is a surprisingly little-known island of forests and beaches, craft studios, a rural inn and bed and breakfasts.

It's just 15.5 miles northwest of Vancouver and about 60 miles south of Whistler. Effectively, it's hidden in plain view, right in the midst of the 2010 Winter Games arena.

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Bowen Island or, as the locals call it, "The Rock," hasn't always drifted under the radar. Once upon a time, or roughly from 1890 to 1950, Bowen was Vancouver's party island. The Union SteamShip company, branded it the Happy Isle.

They brought holidaymakers here from the city for swimming, picnicking, horseback riding, canoeing, lawn bowling, partying and jiving under the stars at the dance pavilion. Guests even enjoyed overnights at the hotel or one of the SteamShip Company's 200 cottages.

Today, there are a few reminders of the past: 10 historic cottages still remain. The Lodge at The Old Dorm, once the dormitory for the staff at the hotel, is now a six-room inn. Evergreen Hall, a former dance hall, is now a Evergreen Hall Guest House B&B. The Union SteamShip Store is now home to the island's library.

Although the Union Steamship Company store welcomes visitors arriving at Snug Cove, Bowen's Coney Island reputation has given way to a new role as a quiet weekend getaway for Vancouverites. The island is a convenient centre for creative retreats. Many of the 3,300 islanders boat into town daily.

What to do

This island packs a lot into its spare 20 square miles. You can sail, swim, beachcomb, join a yoga or fitness class, enjoy a spa treatment, or check out the galleries and craft shops, including a chocolate maker and weaving studio, at Artisan Square near Snug Cove.

There's also a nine-hole, community-built golf course; kayak tours, lessons and rentals; several beaches, and plenty of walking and biking trails through the island's parks and crown land. Favourite treks include the tough but rewarding 10-kilometre hike to the 726-metre peak of Mount Gardner. Should you yearn for an easier pace, the four-kilometre Killarney Lake Trail offers views of the lake, plus a few rugged sections.

Post adventure, it's time to see what's on the menu. Pull up the chair for eggs Benedict at The Snug, Mediterranean pizza at The Tuscany, rolls and more at Bowen Sushi and even European deli treats and small plate dining (Spanish-Asian fusion) at Artisan Eats.

Blue Eyed Mary's dishes up seasonal offerings, while burgers and micro-brewed draft draws crowds at The Bowen Island Pub. It's all about the patio - and some fabulous fish and chips - at Doc Morgan's Restaurant & Marine Pub.

The Rock also exudes more than its share of creative energy. Former resident Nick Bantock, for example, found inspiration for his popular Griffin and Sabine series here, apparently at the Bowen Island Post Office.

Many other writers, artists and craftspeople have also chosen to live and work on Bowen. Noted as the fourth most artistic community in Canada, Bowen Island's population boasts a high percentage of people that derive their primary income from creative endeavours.

Award-winning and internationally acclaimed writers, poet, painters, photographers, sculptors, musicians, singers, actors, producers, dancers, choreographers, weavers, silversmiths, tile makers and more all call Bowen home.

Oh, and if you see anything scary, it's probably just a film set. Bowen Island has been the location for a surprising number of horror flicks in recent years, from 2005's The Fog to 2009's The Uninvited and Harper's Island. Perhaps all that peace and beauty helps keep the audience off its guard.

Where to stay

An inn, The Lodge at the Old Dorm, cottages, and bed and breakfasts welcome guests on Bowen. Here are a few ideas:

  • If you like to keep your friends close and your chocolate closer, check out The Chocolate Suite. It's run by Cocoa West, Bowen's organic chocolatier.
  • Relive the days of the Happy Isle at the historic Lodge at the Old Dorm, an art deco bed and breakfast just outside the village of Snug Cove.
  • Healthy and sustainable are the watch words at the Eco-Shed. This free standing cottage, with room for two, is a model of green building techniques.
  • Check out a working farm, complete with chickens, turkeys, a donkey and even a few emus at Alderwood Farm, a bed and breakfast and organic butcher. Summer weekends boast barbecue lunches for the whole family.


Getting there

The Bowen Island Express, a 12-seater ferry run by Granville Island Water Taxi Services, whisks foot passengers from Vancouver's Granville Island to Snug Cove on Bowen Island in just 20 minutes. The service runs 24 times daily between 6:30 a.m. and 11:30 p.m. Fares are $15 one-way; $25 for a roundtrip. Reservations are required. 604-484-8497 or 888-568-7247.

BC Ferries also offers car and passenger service from Horseshoe Bay, on the Sea to Sky Highway just past West Vancouver; the 20-minute sailings run approximately once an hour from 6:30 a.m. Horseshoe Bay departure with the last sailing from Bowen at 10:00 p.m. and there is a two-hour lunch break daily with the last morning sailing from Horseshoe Bay at 12:00 p.m. and the first sailing in the afternoon at 2:30 p.m.

For more information about Bowen Island, head to hellobc.com

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